Tailoring and, by extension, suiting have always been a consequential part of haute couture—after all, stitching can single-handily change how a garment fits our form. So it is no surprise that we’d find suiting in couture collections, including Viktor & Rolf’s FW/22 collection. But in proper form to these couturiers’ provocative perspective to design, these weren’t your typical suits. The show’s first half featured over-the-top structured collars and constricted hemlines, while the second half still featured oversize collars but were styled with big button-downs and relaxed trousers.

And while you may be thinking, “ok, but we knew relaxed suiting was happening,” what makes this collection noteworthy is how Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren can continuously use couture practices to challenge the way we think. Whether that’s repositioning how we view the confines of masculinity through suiting or what role couture at large plays in culture, Viktor & Rolf, time and time again, connects the throughline thred for us all.